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Holiday pies used to be something grandma made, or dad pulled out of the freezer section. Now, in these artisanal times, from-scratch pies are de rigueur at any gathering, and yet another way for foodies to get judge-y, especially about your crust.
A classic pie crust can be tricky, and novice pastry makers can be undone by the assorted “secrets,” such as ice water (or hot water), which shortening to use, to roll or pat, and the politics of lard.
Speaking of lard, pie purists love it for the flaky pastry it delivers, but it can be tough to find. Supermarkets stash it in meat, dairy, the freezer near the chitterlings. (Asking after it once, I was directed to the kosher fridge, where the block of pig fat was unlikely to be.) Strip District Meats carries block lard.
A fruit-tart-style shortbread crust (butter, flour, sugar) is easier, and if goes wrong, you can eat it as a cookie.
Speaking of cookies, crumbled up fine and combined with melted butter, they make an excellent “cheater’s crust.” Graham crackers make a good base for cream-type pies, and so do ginger snaps. (Put cookies in a clean bag, and kids can help smash them with hammer. Fun!) Consider tossing in crushed nuts (almonds, walnuts or pecans), pretzels or pine nuts for an even more flavorful crust.
And honestly, it’s not a crime to purchase a pre-made pie shell. It can be your secret, and simply add more whipped cream on top to compensate.
This article appears in Nov 19-25, 2014.
My wife’s pie crust is incredible (and I’m not a crust guy, I could live without it, and as a kid wouldn’t really eat the crust that my mom or grandmothers would make). Her crust is flaky, flavorful, crisp on the outside and soft and moist on the inside and she never uses lard.
That said if you’re not into making your own, don’t want to show up with one from the Massive Eagle or Whole Paycheck, (and my wife won’t make one for you), check out Eliza’s Oven in the Pittsburgh Public Market – WOW her pies are amazing and they’re made from scratch and with booze. You won’t mind telling people you didn’t make it yourself because let’s face it, they’re your family, they know you, they know you can’t bake. Besides Eliza’s Oven pies are so amazingly good that you’ll be proud to tell everyone where you got it. I mean, I’m not being paid to write this, I like Eliza’s pies that much that I’ve written this big ol comment here without getting so much as a free sample. Seriously they’re that good!
it’s buy not by